Deleting an Aircraft Profile is easy, but it is permanent.
1. Locate and View the AC Profile you want to Delete:
2. In the opened AC Profile, locate and click the DELETE button:
3. If you are sure, click the red “Yes, delete this aircraft profile” button. You will never be able to retrieve that profile again, and we will not be able to retrieve it for you, so please, proceed with caution:
Calculations seem off? Check your numbers, then double check.
If the calculations aren’t working out, double check all your hand typed-numbers, in every field. It’s likely that they might need adjusting.
We had a customer call to say the calculations weren’t working, but they were. One of his math equations in the “As Received” section was incorrect. After fixing the numbers, all calculations were correct.
If you possibly received incorrect numbers from previous work, it could cause the final calculation to be incorrect. If you feel YOUR numbers are right, make sure the numbers you “inherited” from previous work is accurate.
WEIGHT / CG RANGE:
Maximum (Allowable) Weight: the Aircraft Manual will be the source for this figure.
Calculation: Maximum (Allowable) Weight, less Empty Weight, must equal Useful Load, mathematically.
AS RECEIVED: (Typically, “As Received” means someone else weighed the aircraft, before you received it)
Previous Weight and Balance Date: This date is always before you received it.
Empty Weight: This number comes from the last document or report as W&B Calculations.
Useful Load: Maximum Weight – Empty Weight = Useful Load
Empty Weight x CG (Arm) = Moment
REVISIONS: (What has been removed, and what has been added.)
Moment + Moment Column Totals = New Moment
When you remove an item, be sure to include the minus (-) sign before the numbers.
The Moment will be auto-calculated, after you have added the Weight and Arm, then click Save.
NEW: (In this section, all numbers are auto-calculated.)
Choose either As Calculated or As Weighed, click SAVE.
Here’s a great W&B reference video, from AeroGuard:
I bought my first Maule in 1993. It was an 1970 M-4 220 with original Razorback cover and mid time engine. I decided I would recover it with the Poly Fiber process and have it ready to go the next spring. Two and a half
years later I finally got it in the air! First bit of advice. Don’t buy a project because you think you will save money or with the idea of making money when you sell it. Do a project if you enjoy working on airplanes. If you
want to fly. Pay a bit more, find a good sound airframe and engine, put gas in it and go flying.
So far I’ve owned the M-4 220, an M-5 235 that I modified to an M-6, and an MX7 160. All started out as projects. All took longer than I thought they would to complete. In the process I’ve gained some experience about used Maules and what to look for when buying. I’ve seen a lot of people buy a cheap airplane only to find out in a couple of years they can’t afford to maintain it in good airworthy condition. So they lose interest and sell the airplane. Second bit of advice. It takes money to own and maintain an airplane. Be prepared for unexpected expenses and know they are part of owning an airplane.
This seems to happen most often with engine related issues. Most of the problems can be traced back to the engine sitting around for years at a time with low usage. I’d rather buy an engine that had 1500 hours on it in the last 5 years than one that is 20 years old and only has 500 hrs. total time. When I bought the MX7-160 it had 300 hrs since overhaul, 50 hrs since tear down and inspection for prop strike, but had set 2 years without flying. We did an annual inspection. It had great compression, low oil consumption and ran great for 80 hours. Then I started noticing higher oil use. To make a long story short I ended up tearing the engine down, replacing the cam and lifters, polishing the crank and honing the cylinders. The lifter faces were starting to deteriorate and little flakes of metal were floating around in the oil grinding away on all the other engine surfaces. I had changed the oil and cut the filter open three times and never found a thing to worry about. I’m sure if I had run it another 50 hours I would have needed a major over haul.
Low engine usage equals rust equals problems. If you are looking at an airplane with low time usage, take the cowling off and take a good look. What’s the condition of the cylinder base nuts and the overall appearance of the case? What does the hardware on the fire wall look like? All this has been sitting in the same environment as the internal engine parts. How can they be much different?
Most aircraft are advertised as “sold with fresh annual” or ” recent annual”. I would rather negotiate a deal where I hired a mechanic to do an annual inspection and the owner paid for the items that needed to be repaired or replaced. The sign off doesn’t mean the airplane will fly for a year with no problems. Only that at a certain designated time someone certified it was in airworthy condition. I once picked up an airplane with a fresh annual, hopped in and flew it a couple of hours before stopping for a rest room break. Coming back to the airplane I found oil dripping out of the cowling and a 24″ puddle of oil on the ground. After close inspection I came to the conclusion nothing major was wrong but that every gasket and seal that could leak was leaking! After two years the new owner has most of the leaks contained.
Deferred maintenance is perhaps the biggest “gotcha” of new airplane ownership. Not every previous owner or mechanic is a fraud. The mechanic is perhaps just trying to help his friend and client sell the airplane he has only flown 10 hours in the last two years. Why take the mags off for the 500 hour inspection since the engine runs and starts fine? No use to put the owner through that expense since he is selling the plane and if he keeps it he will only fly a few hours anyway. Last December I helped a client move a freshly annualed airplane from Seattle to Cut Bank. We were to head back east with it but weather got in the way and we decided to leave it in Cut Bank and continue on in the spring. Since it was here for the winter the client decided to have the local maintenance facility fix a few things so it would be ready next spring. On inspecting the spark plugs it was found that every plug failed the “go/ no go” test gauge. This was 8 hours of flight time since it had been signed off. Yes the engine started and ran OK but how long until plugs start to fail? Champion makes the test gauge for a reason.
On the other side of things remember you are purchasing a used 20, 30. or 40 year old airplane. Not everything is going to be perfect and the seller shouldn’t have to fix every little thing. You’ll have to live with some imperfections. Come to a price that will leave you some room to take care of different maintenance items you find out about but can work on later. (Look at the “second bit of advice” above.) The other option for some is to pony up and buy a new airplane.
More Things to consider
Over the last 30 years I have been a student of all things Maule. I have purchased a couple of aircraft and have helped clients with flight training and the purchase of aircraft. There is no guarantee when purchasing a used airplane. If at all possible physically set eyes on the airplane and take a ride in it. That might be enough to make the decision to keep looking for another airplane. For the most part I would say that no matter how much research and inspecting you do there will always be mechanical problems with your “new” acquisition. Some will be easy to correct others can become a financial hardship. Over time I have come to find certain phrases in ads that flag possible future problems. Here they are in no certain order.
Sold with fresh annual Always have a pre-purchase inspection done with a mechanic of your choice. If you can be there that is a plus. Set out what items you want looked at. If you want to pay for a full blown annual inspection that’s fine. There are items of an annual inspection set out in Ch.43 apx.D. Get a flat rate price for the inspection. Inspection means looking at the aircraft, not repairing what you find. Discrepancies can be paid for by the owner or discounted off the purchase price. Have this in a written agreement ahead of time.
All compressions in the 70s Compression readings will tell you the rings and valves are seated and working correctly. If there is a problem only that cylinder need be repaired. That will cost some money and time but it is not out of the ordinary. It is not a good indicator of overall engine health. The real and expensive problem is internal corrosion. A borescope of the cylinders might give some indication of problems, but on the Lycoming’s there is no way to get a good look at the cam and lifters. The problem might not show up for another 70 or 80 hours. That is the expensive problem to remedy. You have to take the engine out and tear it down. If the owner has a long track record of oil analysis records that is a plus. One or two samples is not adequate.
Flown regularly For some people that might mean once every six months! Not every flight hour is created equal. Once a week around the patch and back in the hangar is not good. A once every six weeks, four hour cross country may be better. The best scenario is to have the engine oil temperature of 180F and held there for an hour or so to get best life out of the engine.
Author – Rick Geiger
I bought my first Maule in 1993. Over the years the aircraft has proven to be rugged and reliable. I have learned a few things along the way that might help you avoid some of my mistakes and expenses of owning and operating an aircraft.
*Re-posted with the author’s permission. See original article here:
AvGas has always fluctuated and always will, but as we know, extreme prices can affect every aspect of flight. We look forward to the low numbers that keep the wings in the air. Here are the most recent trends, in US Dollars:
To watch these trends yourself, check out the map at GlobalAir:
By popular customer request, we’ve been making improvements to our Parts List tool.
The most recent improvement is Parts Inventory Tracking, giving you the option, and ability to record quantities for each Part in your list. This allows you to track what you have in stock.
If a current Part only lists a quantity of 1 (one), you can Edit that part, and now add the actual Quantity you have on hand.
When that Part is added to an activity, such as an Invoice or Work Order, that number of purchased Parts is subtracted from your stock.
Parts Inventory Tracking is defaulted to “OFF”. You have the option to turn Parts inventory “On” if you’d like to use it, or leave it “Off” if you don’t want to track quantities. It’s up to you. Go to My Profile, and click the Inventory button to either “Off” or “On”, whichever you choose.
How to ACTIVATE INVENTORY TRACKING:
To Activate Tracking, go to:
Click the Inventory Tracking button so it shows a green On button
Please NOTE the following:
By turning on Inventory Tracking, all quantities will begin at 1. For the best possible user experience, update your parts quantities in My Parts before you add parts to service invoices or work orders.
By turning off Inventory Tracking, all My Parts quantities will be lost. When turning off Inventory Tracking, please make certain that is what you would like to do.
When parts Inventory is turned ON, and you are viewing your Parts List, there is a column for Quantity. When you go to EDIT a part, the Quantity is available to be changed.
When parts Inventory is turned OFF, and you are viewing your Parts List, there is NO column for Quantity. When you go to EDIT a part, the Quantity is NOT available to be changed.
How to EDIT a PART:
Go to “My Parts”
Locate the item you want to change. Using the Filter Search can make locating a Part easier and faster.
Make the changes and click Save.
When you Edit a Part, you will see a notation that states:
Warning: Changes made to this part will not affect parts already added to Work Orders or Service Invoices.
Use Parts in Work Orders & Invoices:
You can use Parts from your list, and apply quantities when using Work Orders and Invoices.
For Work Orders:
Open the Work Order
Either +ADD a new Discrepancy, or VIEW an existing one.
Either +ADD a new Part, or click on the Part name to EDIT it.
Make your changes and click SAVE.
An extra feature of Work Orders is that they be converted into an Invoice.
Open the Invoice you want to Add or Edit a Part to.
Either +ADD a new Part, or click on the Part name to EDIT it.
Make your changes and click SAVE.
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Over time, more functions will be added to the “My Parts” tool, such as Reporting, to list the areas the parts were used, such as Work Orders and Invoices. Another ability in the future will be to add more Quantity from within an Invoice or Work Order, instead of having to go back the My Parts, and Edit the part, as you currently have to do. The Parts Inventory will slowly receive improvements over time.
Currently, our service only lists Small Aircraft (weighing 12,500 lbs and under) that have ADs issued to them. We do not list Experimentals, Sport, or Large aircraft weighing more than 12,500 lbs.
But what if you service something that is not in our system? There is one work around for that. You will start with adding a new Profile for an Experimental (EXP), and make changes to it after the Profile is established. Here’s how:
To add an Experimental or Large aircraft, to Aircraft Profiles:
1. Login to the Member’s Dashboard: 1) click Aircraft Profiles, then 2) click Create New Aircraft Profile:
2.Click Search by Model:
3. Type Exp into the model field, and click Search.
3. Click the dot on the right side, then click the Select an Airframe and Click Here button:
Nothing will exist in the record, so be sure to add all the information you can, such as N# (Tail) and Serial Number, and the Name of the Aircraft:
IS THE PROFILE COMPLETE?
Once you’ve set up the Aircraft Profile, you can do a number of other things, like:
Add a Photo.
Add a Customer (strongly recommended)
Create a new, or link to an existing: AD Report, Logbook Entry, Weight Form, 337, ICA Work Order, or Invoice.
*Note: Since there are no ADs with an EXP profile, you can add them manually. Just start a New AD Report, and Add a Single AD, one at a time, until all the ADs you want to list are added.